FREEZE PROTOCOL

1.     My spa isn’t heating.  Don’t turn power off - spa will freeze! Remember water can’t freeze if it’s circulating. If there isn't a heat light on the console, remove filter- if still no heat light, we’ll need to do a site check. Even if the heater is out and the temperature is falling the spa won’t freeze as long as there is water moving.

2.     Motor is out, therefore no circulation. Don’t turn the power off! Most of our spas have multiple pumps and the automatic

freeze protection will turn on the other pumps at around 44 degrees, depending on the model, to keep the water moving. If not sure about how many pumps, have customer put shop light for warmth in equipment area and close up the access door. This will keep enough heat in the enclosure to prevent freezing.

3.     GFI circuit breaker is tripping.  There will be no circulation so it’s imperative that the shop light for heat (mentioned above) be used.  If the spa is out of town, for example, we might recommend draining in addition to the light since we can’t get there right away. This will be Mark’s call. However, warning against heat lamps etc. as these put too much heat in the area and can actually melt plumbing.

4.    Spa is already frozen.  The vessel of the spa should be drained to prevent the entire spa from freezing as well. Normally the equipment area will freeze first, and sometimes a minor piece of plumbing will break (a union or split nut for example,) all the water

will then run out of the spa, and that piece that is broken is the extent of the damage. We do have to wait for the equipment to thaw on its own since applying heat at this point will only thaw the equipment and not the lines around the sides which are enclosed in foam. Thawing usually only requires a day or two in the 40’s or 50’s which happens frequently in Colorado during the winter.

5.     In all cases refer these to Kitty in our Service Dept. (719-630-3100) immediately for scheduling, as we prioritize these calls in

the winter. 

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